Tuesday, February 28, 2012

Cambodia & Thailand

As an Orthodox Christian, I’m not supposed to believe in destiny, fate, omens, and the like. We’re supposed to believe in Free Will & Co., which is fine by me.
However, as a slightly superstitious, anything-is-possible, there-must-be-some-sort-of-hidden-meaning-to-this sort of person, I have three philosophies:
  1. Everything happens for a reason.
  2. Everything has some sort of hidden meaning and
  3. If you figure out the hidden meaning, everything will turn out well in the end (the end, however, may come later than you think).
And this was beautifully demonstrated this morning at 4 am. But to explain, we must go to the beginning.

We left Cambodia, which is gorgeous, but there isn’t much to say. I will say it here, though, as I have no intention of writing an entire blogpost about it.
We met a group of adults who taught English in the southern part of China, who were traveling for a few weeks around Southeast Asia, and at least three out of five of them had been homeschooled. Later, we saw them again with monkeys climbing all over them. I would have borrowed one, but they weren’t exactly tame, and I had no inclination to go back to the bathroom to wash my hands, then spend the next few days picking monkey fur off of my clothes. One of the women was later bitten by a mother monkey for picking up the baby monkey. After that we left the monkeys alone.
Also, Angkor Wat is possibly the most boring temple in all the Angkor Wat complex, if not the world.
More interesting things that happened in Cambodia was that, one morning I was talking with Gabriel, who asked me if I wanted to go home. I replied, ‘YES’ and gave my reasons. Later that day I was at a restaurant, eating my delicious stir-fry noodles with pork when it literally hit me. I rocked back and forth* as if I’d been hit in the head [and as Tae Kwon Do student who used to spar every Saturday morning as a kid, I would know the feeling very well...] and I realised, why would I go home? What would I do home? Sure, I say I’m going to start composing and become reacquainted with my piano, but I’m always saying things. Sure, I say I’ll take a long, long, long walk outside every day [does wonders for the complexion], but I’m not that sure I will. No sir, I will not be returning home ahead of schedule.
*I tend to get dizzy very easily. Running in circles, tire-swings, standing up too quickly, mad-crazy heat... So I suppose it was coincidence that the heat hit me at the same time as my little ‘eureka!’ moment.
Also, we got a pedicure from some flesh-eating fish [which is actually better than I just made it sound] and met Patrick (also known as ‘Patty’) and Sam, two Britishers traveling around Southeast Asia for six weeks, and had a very nice long conversation with them.
We also later visited a land mine museum.
We left Cambodia by bus, in the wee hours of the morning. We stood waiting with a group of people also going to Bangkok, Thailand, expecting a boring ride in a big van, spent reading, listening to music, perhaps talking with the rest of your family (if you had a family), or, in Ioan’s case, killing battery on various games that I was not aware existed. He has developed a habit of surfing iTunes looking for interesting apps, then somehow convincing Dad to download them. I don’t know how he does it. I wish I did.
Anyway, we were right—we spent the ride in the vans not caring for our neighbours, as there was no reason to, and then, just a few kilometers from the border, we stopped.
Scene I, Act I: A Comedy of Scammers.
A guy came and said we had to buy a red circular sticker from him, and that we had to give him our bus tickets to Bangkok. No-one understood why we had to give our tickets—our only form of proof that we had bought tickets for the bus—to this man, and when asked he didn’t give any satisfactory answers.
Now I, as a child going through her own, non-serious, version of Peter Pan’s Syndrome, did not pay much attention to what was going on between the adults, and followed their lead. When Daddy came handing out red stickers, I put them on. Of course, I asked why, and received the answer that we had to, or else the bus people wouldn’t recognize us. Then another guy, an American from the second van, came up to us and said, ‘No. It’s a scam. They’re taking your tickets so you have to buy a second ticket when you get there. It’s a scam, get your tickets back.’ So we took the stickers off and gave them to Dad, who, along with some of our neighbours, managed, after a long time, to convince the guy to give our tickets back.
Scene II, Act I.
Now, as this was going on, I was as usual, listening to music (but not Guns N’ Roses, shockingly enough—to the songs of the Alternate Genre, a playlist of 100+ songs, from my previous post. I was right, though, I did manage to finish all those songs before the post was finished.), but then along came a little boy, about two years old, maybe more, maybe less. He climbed in our van, walked around, played with the seats, got out, got in again, noticed the van door was open and closed it. We opened it later, and he came back again to close it. We opened it again.
Beside the door was a young Korean woman, with long brown hair and big, square, black-rimmed glasses. When the baby came again to close the door for the third time, she quickly grabbed the door handle from the inside and made sure the door stayed open. The baby pushed and pushed, but he couldn’t close the door. Confused as to why the door would not close this time while it had been in proper working condition before, he came round to see what was wrong. Very quickly, the girl took her hand off the handle and placed it in her lap. Seeing no problem, the baby returned to his work of door-shutting. Immediately she grabbed the door handle and once more there was a brief battle of wills, which she won (barely—she was laughing too hard). The boy came round again, trying to see what was wrong, but again there was nothing to show any sort of problem. So he went back to the door and she grabbed the handle again. This time it lasted longer, but eventually, the baby gave up, assuming the door had simply died.
He kept coming back to the van, though, as Maria, Ioan and I kept playing with him. Finally, I got out of the van and picked him up. I felt so proud—it’s a baby and I was holding him properly!
He looked at me with his big eyes and plump face, with a look that said, ‘You are a human. I shall endure this strange turn of events until you put me down, but I prefer you put me down now.’ I was smiling at him, bounced him once or twice, making the usual cute baby noises, saying nonsense like, ‘Hello, hello! You are so cute, blah blah blah.’
Now, if you smile at a girl baby, the chances she will smile back are much bigger than if you smile at a boy baby, and, knowing this, I didn’t think much of the fact that, even though my smile was as wide as wide could be, he stared at me like that aunt that’s always pinching your cheeks.
So it really came as a shock to me when he lifted up his pudgy little fist and punched me in the face.
Now, if you assume that a baby’s punches have no weight, you would be correct. But it is rather annoying to have a baby punch you twice and then slap you for good measure.
I quickly put him down, rather shocked but still finding the whole situation absurd, and got back in the van. He climbed in after me and then pulled back to punch Ioan, who caught it. Then he went on to Maria, but luckily he was taken out of the van by—his father? Anyway, he left us alone after that.
‘Wow, Ileana,’ said Ioan. ‘You were just punched in the face by a baby. I can’t believe you couldn’t defend a punch from a baby!’
Of course I couldn’t defend a punch from a baby. First off, I am a girl who, upon seeing a cute baby, exclaims to Maria about the overall cuteness of that baby, which is, more often than not, agreed with, and the two of us shall make wistful comments along the lines of ‘I wish I were pregnant/I wish I had a baby.’ (The first is usually mine—being pregnant means I can be fat and eat way more than I should. Also, it means that the rest of the world is automatically my slave.) Secondly, I am rather insecure about the whole holding-a-baby thing, so I would rather have both hands on the baby I am holding. To defend a punch from a baby, I would have to either dodge it (not possible without a giraffe neck), or take one of my hands off the baby and then take appropriate measures.
As you may have already deducted from previous paragraphs, due to my lack of giraffe neck I ended up taking the punches.
Scene I, Act II.
After we finally left the baby and the man who may or may not have been scamming us, we reached the border and looked for our bus. We stood in lines, got to know each other. There was an Australian who was actually from New Zealand, and he had brought his guitar with him. Discovering that I also played guitar, we had a conversation in which he gave me some tips on improving. There was the American, Derrick, who had warned us about the scam, and taught world history back in California. Then, of course, was the Korean girl, and a family from Czech Republic. They had kept their red stickers, so when the people came saying about a bus to Bangkok, us sticker-less people opted to follow them down the rabbit hole. However, like the white rabbit, the man leading us (or, more correctly, the Czechs) to the bus had no consideration for the slower people of the group, an old Israelite woman traveling with her daughter. The daughter would keep shouting, ‘Excuse me, could you please go slower? Excuse me, please slow down!’ and then angrily exclaim to us, ‘I can’t believe it! He has no consideration for the older people of the group! My mother is way back there, she can’t keep up.’ They had been on the bus with Mr. Derrick. We finally reached the ‘bus’, which was actually a van, and watched as the Czechs got it and rode off into the noonday sun.
Scene II, Act II.
Now the comedy really begins. The Israelite woman went up to one of the men working at the bus-center and started talking to him, saying how her money had been stolen and she wanted the police. She started getting louder and louder, and pretty soon was shouting at him. Mr. Derrick, trying to be helpful, came up and explained very nicely that they had been scammed, that they wanted their money back, they wanted the police... The man was listening to Mr. Derrick, not the Israelite, which I found slightly sexist, but had to agree with. I myself know very well that shouting, violence and tantrum-throwing is not a very effective way of getting things done. Putting it into practice, however, is surprisingly difficult.
‘I want the police! Who is the man with the bus? I want to know his name!’ the Israelite woman shouted, referring to one of the scammers.
‘I don’t understand why you are attacking me,’ the man from the bus-center said, which is normally the best thing to do when you are dealing with an angry person.
‘Why I’m attacking you? Ever since I came here, all I hear is screaming, screaming, screaming! My money has been stolen, I want to know the driver’s name. I want the police to arrest him!’ She shouted angrily.
The Australian-from-New-Zealand walked around, minding his own business, getting a new bus. Mr. Derrick also walked around, trying to find a way to Bangkok. The man talked with his coworkers. The Israelite women talked with us calmly about various things. The money, the scammers, why this is happening, how is it happening, how they made money off of it, where are you from, how Romanians have Israelite students at the Universities, before charging off into battle, switching from their gregarious, lovely selves into she-demons, angrily shouting at the other scammers. The police came, they explained to him, did some more shouting, and between this they would come to us to talk some more.
‘A little fight is good,’ the mother said, smiling. They were enjoying themselves...
Mom and I watched, also enjoying ourselves at how worked up they would get, and how quickly they would switch to normal, friendly people. While they would be off causing a ruckus, Mom and I would be discussing them.
I hate complaints and negative comments. It really messes up my day. And because I hate hearing these sort of things, I try to avoid saying them. So, to me, causing an incredibly huge ruckus about how your money has been stolen and how you want the man arrested and this bad thing happened and that bad thing happened and you want it all fixed, is not something I would do, or something that I fully understand.
Mom, on the other hand, says that it is good that they are making a ruckus (maybe she doesn’t agree with their shouting and angry gesticulating, but she agrees that at least someone should be protesting this ‘scam’), because if enough people make a scene at this bus-center, then they will eventually have to close down, which will be good for future travelers, because then they won’t get scammed. This went into my ‘for the greater good’ category, which includes tourists exercising self-restraint as they go on night-safaris to watch lions, and refuse the urge get out of the jeep and really close to the lions, for the sake of future tourists. Because if you do get out of the jeep, the lions will no longer see the jeep and assume it is one single wickedly ugly animal. Instead, they will see the jeep and assume it is a jeep full of tourists, which may be eaten. And so, even if the lions don’t eat you, who got out of the jeep, they will eventually eat a different tourist, for no reason other than tourists are much slower than gazelles, and probably more nutritional.
And so, with this to compare to, I let the Israelites shout their way to I’m not sure what end, but I think that they may have succeeded, I don’t know, but we did end up on a bus to Bangkok, and then on a second bus to Ayutthaya, and then we were in a hotel room enjoying ourselves.
Tourist destinations were visited, temples that were climbed on in the hot noonday sun, museums full of sculptures and fans, and more temples to top it off. Then a bus was taken to Bangkok where we had another hotel room and my iTouch, iLeana, had great difficulty in connecting to internet, which resulted in much anger on my part in those moments in which internet was absolutely critical (which, I’ll admit, is never, really, because internet is not actually that important to human survival, unless, of course, you are Shane Schofield from Ice Station, by Matthew Reilly. Then, in that case, it is sorta critical).
We slept in the first day, then woke up early the next, so we could visit a very shiny palace or temple or whatsit, because I wasn’t really too clear on that (I think you have understood by now that there are few things I’m clear on), but it was interesting and... shiny.
Then we waited in our hotel lobby for a taxi and I saw a very interesting book cover (they say don’t judge a book by it’s cover, and they may be right, but I will continue to pick up blue books) at the bookshelf—it was royal blue and had a combination of real leaves and golden vines on the cover, a few insects, and in the front, a dragonfly that wasn’t really a dragonfly. It mostly had the body of a dragonfly, but where its head should have been was a green statue of a naked woman, showing only her head (which seemed to be helmeted, but turned out to have the dragonfly’s eyes on either side) down to her waist. And the moment I saw that dragonfly I thought, ‘Oh damn.’
Because I had this book at home, in a very thick hardcover edition. And I had tried very hard to read it and understood nothing.
It was not a romance. It was not a thriller, nor an adventure, nor a fantasy, nor anything I could think of. It was about the lives of various people in 19th century England as they went about their lives, various people who were all connected to each other.
The Children’s Book, by A.S. Byatt.
‘Oh, what the heck?’ I thought to myself. ‘You did say that you should reread it when your older. Well, you’re older now.’ So I sat down and started reading.
I now blame all of my nonunderstanding to the hardcover. Because I really don’t like hardcover. What I don’t understand, however, is how my copy is so thick, and how this copy is so thin. Because they both have small font and, besides the thickness and the fact that this ‘new’ copy is a soft-cover, there really is no difference (that I can recall).
So, an hour later, you see me waiting for my Hepatitis A vaccine while reading a book that now intensely interests me.
The vaccine was surprisingly painless, but took such a long time that I finally had to open my tightly-shut eyes, stop reciting the alphabet and check if the needle was still in my arm. It was. I did not appreciate it.
Finally the vaccines were over and done with and we went to the train station to get on our train to Koh Tao. We mostly stayed at a restaurant, even after we’d finished lunch, except for when we went to KFC for ice cream and later for the bathroom. I managed to convince Dad to give me five baht (the Thai currency) for a machine that would tell you your fortune. You’d put in your money, a little slave would turn a numbered wheel, and a huge magician would hold a stick over the turning wheel. When the wheel stopped turning, the stick would fall onto a number (in my case, 6). Beneath this whole ‘magic act’ was a shelf with differently numbered slots, and depending on which number you got (6), that slot held your fortune. It was rather similar to my (mis)fortune from Nara, Japan, where you’d shake a box of sticks, and depending on which one fell out you ended up with a fortune. Hoping for something more optimistic than Japan (or my horoscopes for 2012, which include, you guessed it, more misfortune for both Pisces and the Ox), I took a sheet of paper from Slot 6 (six being, along with four, one of the numbers I for some strange, unknown reason, just plain and simple do not like), looked at it, and burst out laughing. I showed it Dad and Ioan, then went back to our table at the restaurant to show Mom.
‘Mom, you know that fortuneteller thing down by the stairs?’ I asked her. ‘Well, Dad gave me some money to try it out.’
‘What does it say?’ She asked.
‘Here, read for yourself!’ and I showed her the paper. She too burst out laughing, because it was all in Thai, with no English translation. It’s here in my pocket as I write, because I have a sneaking suspicion that Jim, an English diving instructor living here in Koh Tao, may speak Thai and might be able to translate my fortune.*
*I never did ask him. Now it is in my other pocket, waiting for someone else to translate it.
Finally we got on the train and settled down. We ate a few crackers. Read some. I stayed up until 9.07 pm with a flashlight strapped to my head, skimming through the political events of 1896, itching to find out what happens to Philip (who, even though he is an important character, is not the main character. In fact, there is no main character, which means that I will read about Philip and Dorothy, my two favorite characters, but I shall also have to read about Olive and Dobbin, two characters who I find excruciatingly boring), but instead put the book down and settled down to sleep. I pulled my blanket out of its plastic bag. It looked and felt more like a towel, but it kept me warm and smelled like something that had been washed perhaps a week ago, but hadn’t had the opportunity to smell otherwise. It smelled clean, but in a dusty sort of way.
I put in my earbuds and listened to Guns N’ Roses (I had discovered on the first night in Bangkok, that, much as I loved my Alternate songs, I had actually missed Guns N’ Roses, more than I’d realised), then woke up after I’d listened to all my songs at least once, and turned the music off.
I woke up a second time at 12.30, and again at 3.36.
I stared at iLeana’s screen contemplatively. Then, ‘Yeah, you can probably sleep for another 20 minutes.’ The next thing I knew, I was being shaken desperately, as if being silently told that if I did not wake up immediately, honey badgers would eat all of humanity. This terrible image resulted in me sitting up so fast that I cracked my back, saying in a whispered scream, ‘Oh my God oh my God oh my God!’ repeatedly.
It turned out that honey badgers were not eating all of humanity, and that we’d simply arrived at our station at the allotted time, 4 am. I put Book in my backpack, gave Dad back the flashlight, loaded up my stuff and walked out of the train.
As an Orthodox Christian, I’m not supposed to believe in destiny, fate, omens, and the like. We’re supposed to believe in Free Will & Co., which is fine by me.
However, as a slightly superstitious, anything-is-possible, there-must-be-some-sort-of-hidden-meaning-to-this sort of person, I have three philosophies:
  1. Everything happens for a reason.
  2. Everything has some sort of hidden meaning and
  3. If you figure out the hidden meaning, everything will turn out well in the end (the end, however, may come later than you think).
As I walked out of the train, a man in his ‘compartment’ asked me what the time was. And I, knowing that we’d be arriving at our station at four in the morning, and that I’d woken up at 3.36 earlier, told him, ‘Oh, about four.’ He thanked me and went back into his little cocoon.
I know you knew the time, my Inner Self said to me, but shouldn’t you have checked to give him the exact time? (Because I am one of those people who, if it is 1.47, will say ‘1.47’, not ‘1.45’ or ‘1.50’.)
Yeah, I said back to my Inner Self, but he just wanted a general idea of the time, not an exact number. Besides, it’s not like I had time to stop and pull out my iPod.
At this point, I was already out of the train and had dropped my backpack on the pavement.
Do I even have my iPod...? One self asked the other (because, seeing as I’m the same person, it’s very hard to keep track of who is who). We patted down our pockets to check, because I had a feeling that I hadn’t put it in my backpack.
‘OH MY GOD,’ I said.
‘What?’ Everyone said back.
‘I DON’T HAVE MY IPOD.’ I said.
‘OH MY GOD.’ Everyone said back.
And so the next scene includes me and Mom rushing like madwomen back to my compartment and successfully rescuing iLeana from whatever terrible future awaited it.
Which has effectively proved my philosophies true.
(What? You can provide evidence proving them wrong? Just wait a bit longer, you’ll see that I’m right. You may have to wait a very long time though.)
We waited until seven to get on a bus to the docks, where we got on a boat to Koh Tao, where we met Jim, the English diving instructor. I am currently in my little bungalow with Maria and Ioan, writing this incredibly long blogpost, and in about six minutes we should be going off to eat.
PS: Yes, The Children’s Book is written by a British authoress. The spelling and single quotation marks totally didn’t give it away. Besides, the British know that words like ‘honour’, ‘colour’, ‘neighbour’ are spelled with ‘u’s in them.

Paradise

Define paradise. A lost island in Thailand, a hut on a white, fine sand beach, azure, shallow waters with a ripple like a wave, a couple of long boats, painted in their bright, hot colors and palm trees sharing their shadow in the gentle breeze. Rocks on the side with some reefs and colorful fish. The hills and the jungle behind, cutting off any sight, sound or thought of an outside world. Warm just enough to be naked all the time. Great tasting food, tropical fruits and cold drinks. A quiet night with buckets of stars, squeezed in a long chair along your loved one. Silence, just the sea sounds or maybe some subdued great music. A stunning sunrise and a breathtaking sunset. If it has to be just one, who decides, do you get options or just take what comes? And when some of these ingredients are missing, where does someone draw the line and counts it as a good enough paradise?
Up at the viewpoint
Late sunrise

This is why it's called Bottle Beach

We want a deserted, secluded beach, but not quite like that, there can be a few people, here and there. Ko Phangan (pronounced phanyan), a crazy place where crazy people come from all over the world to the crazy full moon parties, is a good size island, with mountains, waterfalls, Chinese and Thai temples, a few beaches and all the tourists that you don't want. Not as developed as the bigger sister, Koh Samui, this island might still be our last chance. It is catching up fast and it seems that our options are more and more limited. Ryan, from "RoundWeGo", told me where they stayed, but those people moved their huts and we don't want to be close to five star resorts and all the amenities of modern life. On the east side, there might still be a couple of small gulfs, little unpretentious resorts for every budget and on the North side there is a "Bottle Beach". Reachable only by boat, it is famous for being secluded. How can that be? We decided to see what means famous and isolated. There are three resorts, 1, 2 and 3, owned by different members of the same family. I call the day before and make a reservation, I think I do, because with all the noise behind me, there is no way of understanding the sounds at the other end of the line. We get on a ferry from Ko Tao, 90 minutes later we land in Thong Sala and at the end of the pier we get a taxi. It will stop for a minute at 7-11, I get one sliced bread and jump in again. Twenty minutes later we are on another pier, on the North side of the island in Chaloklum and a minute later on a taxi boat to Bottle Beach. The cost is outrageous, but I have no time to look for alternatives. Thirty minutes later, the beach comes into view, we land and a lady starts waving. Not the right place, we made reservation at Bottle Beach 1, this is Bottle Beach 2. A few meters to the right we are now in the right place, get a couple of cabins for a couple of nights, the row behind, but later we would move in the front row. A few days pass, Maria didn't yet get in the water, Ileana did once, when would these girls realize that this is a once in a lifetime chance?

Freshly shaved for Valentine's day

Our second residence, a "luxury" bungalow

We get visitors!

One night I wake up at 3.30am, this sounds like rain, more like a deluge. I cannot go back to sleep, it's like somebody is pouring buckets of water over my head, I get out on the porch and start reading about our next stop. Penang, Malaysia, amazing, interesting location, another island, but no beach. An industrial, developed city, we are not ready for that yet. I go back to sleep a little sad, what was on my mind when I made those plans? What would we do a whole week there, we could probably visit everything in two days. But I already bought the plane tickets, another $300 to be lost, plus we will have to buy train tickets there, another $150. By the end of the day it wouldn't matter, we decide to stay another five nights here. Next day I go by myself in the village and buy as much food as I can carry.
$100 worth of food in one succsessful trip

With the only train being sold out we will later find out that we have to stay one more day, we would take our last chance and end up with only one night in Penang. Fourteen days on Bottle Beach. I could have never planned that, I would have never imagined "wasting" so much time in paradise. Layers and layers of fatigue came down off us, the girls slowly started to get out, get in the water, have fun. We read, watched movies, played cards, talked under the stars, got happy or depressed, bored and hungry. The food was too expensive, passable, but not exciting. The time for food was exciting, the evening we all ate together, the rest of the time we would go to the restaurant when we felt like it. No Internet was good, just minimal contact with the world out there. The only variation was the arrival or departure of the visiting boats, sometimes 3-4 per day, sometimes 20. It sounds like a lot, but even 20, spread out on a couple hundred meters of shore and over an eight hour interval. No other action, sometimes watching funny young children on the beach or gorgeous young bodies frying in the sun (they can seem gorgeous if you stay far enough). Sometimes playing badminton or jumping in the pool. Occasionally writing some to catch up on our blogs, rating some older pictures from India or China and reading long boring overdue books.

"Gorgeous bodies frying in the sun"
We met an amazing family from Perth, they travel with five younger children for a year, they left in November, they will stay mostly in Asia, but they plan to "hurry up and travel in Europe"  before their children grow up and "start traveling by themselves". I laughed at this, such a different perspective. In America, parents might worry that they have to do something before the children grow up, get a job at McDonalds and/or go to college.

There is one trip than can be made. Ioan and I woke up at 5.30 to go to the viewpoint, hoping to catch the sunrise. It was pitch dark, we should have looked for the trail the day before. It took some time to get going, after a failed attempt to climb through the jungle at the end of the beach. Then we found the trail and after an hour we were on the highest rock, soaking sweat, but amazed. It was worth all the trouble. The sun was up, but our beach was still in the shadow. Some of the peaks of the mountains surrounding us were in the clouds, the sea below had various hues of green and blue and there was another little island on the horizon.


Another option is to take a boat trip somewhere, maybe scuba diving or snorkeling. We considered having Ioan finishing his last dive to get the open water certificate. It would have been $100 or $130 for the dive, plus another $50 for the certificate form. Ioan was equal, OK with it, OK without. We chose the money.

Despite the cost I like PADI. Without their certificate you cannot dive. They should do the same for music, if you don't have a certificate, you cannot record and people are not allowed to play your music. "But this is a matter of taste, some people might like it", protests Ioan. "Some people like to put their heads in the toilet bowl, it doesn't qualify as diving, this shouldn't qualify as music and they shouldn't be allowed to play it." When did I get so mean? Did I just ruin the paradise? Hopefully not. The music at the restaurant wasn't always that horrible. They had a Beatles album one day, that was great, but I never knew that Bob Marley or Pink Floyd can be so bad. And even these, as pitiful as they were, were good compared with some other of the waiters' favorites. The waiters by the way were always drunk, first thing in the morning, during the day or late at night. They were loud, obnoxious, trying too hard to be funny, or just simply inappropriate. One morning, Ileana Ruxandra got in trouble when she ordered American breakfast, specified how she wants the eggs and the main waiter started to yell at her. She apologized profusely and he forgave her. After a while we got used to them, started to like some of them and realized that they are hardly drinking, they were just high on life, pathologically happy, borderline manic. It didn't make the food any better, but we were just amused by almost everything around there. The variation in portions, the salad or no salad, the order of the servings, overcharging or not charging for food. Just not the music.
Valentine's Day, rose made of napkins, under the table, so the boss wouldn't catch him!

A north facing beach has no sunrise or sunset. There is still something magical as the sun rises above the mountain, seven o'clock, most people are asleep and the color of light still has some reddish hues. At 6 the sun falls behind the mountain behind, the shadows of the palm trees grow longer and longer and then is still light but no sun or sunset. Still paradise. There were a few more things that were not great, too little to count in the end, it wasn't all ideal but it was "good enough."

You can have the picture perfect setup for a paradise, you can have the best companions and a gorgeous weather but there is another element to consider. What is the right amount of time to spend in a place like this? Some people come for a few hours, some for a few days. I felt that eight days was more than enough, then we wanted more and more and more. In the end we stayed 14 nights. Asked how many we should have stayed, Ileana Ruxandra said "a lifetime", or maybe 18 or 21, Ileana thought three days, Maria believed it "was just right". Ioan completely lost track of the days, so he couldn't answer my question. I think 40 would have been the right amount. As the time passes there are changes. Outside, the sea can change, sometime it comes closer, sometimes is clear, sometimes is murky or even dirty. The wind, the clouds and the light change. After you see and discover everything in two hours, you realize after two weeks that you haven't seen anything and there is more and more to discover. On a tiny beach, not even going once more than 20 meters inland. There are changes, happening inside, maybe too subtle to describe, but changes nonetheless and they amplify all that is happening outside. It is still me, it is still us, but I feel that we are a little different.

We left on this trip to discover a slice of this world. We got detoured when we saw a little bit of the under(water)-world, and then we got lost in some paradise. Don't worry we are coming back to Earth now.

Rush hour on Bottle Beach

Our third and last residence


Fast pace action

Bye bye Bottle Beach

The Land of Siam


Sawatdee Ayutthaya
With lots of adventure (link 1 2 3), bad feelings and Mihai’s skill, finding our bus in a huge terminal, we arrived in the old capital of Thailand. It is a change of plans, we didn’t know we wanted to come here, because we didn’t read about it. While at home, Mihai tried everything, except bribing, to make us find more about where we wanted to go, but we procrastinated. For one reason, I can’t remember all the details and I didn’t want to read about something that later would prove that we were not going to visit. We wanted flexibility and that’s what we were doing: deciding that we don’t want 5 days in Bangkok, but two in Ayutthaya.

As we step out of the bus we hear “Welcome friend!”. My barriers shoot up immediately, preparing for anything, but it was just a rickshaw driver, who very politely asked us where we wanted to go. He offered his services for the next day if we wanted. That’s what people do in this part of the world. We accepted and he catered to our needs and adjusted to our schedule. 
The ruins in Ayutthaya didn't impress me, maybe just because they were brick buildings stripped of their adornments, still standing. Because of the flood, they were entry free and cordoned with yellow tape in many parts.

Wat Maha That Temple, the rest of the statue is hidden by the roots.


 The earth was still squishing water. In some parts, stupas were leaning dangerously out of line, like multiple leaning towers of Pisa. 
Ayutthaya continued to exist, even if it wasn’t the capital anymore. So now you find those archeological treasures dotting the old part of the city. The contrast is stark, especially when you have a new temple for Buddha, immaculately white, with trims of colored glass and mirrors. They look like a modified Chinese pagoda, taller, slimmer, with curlier corners. People enter all the time, light incense, bring white lotus flowers and cover the statues of Buddha in gold leaf, one square inch at a time. They buy these double paper leaves of gold, choose a spot, say a quick prayer, stick it, rub it and then throw the paper on the floor. 
Wat Na Phra Men, built curved as a boat.

The day is hot and muggy. Our inward compasses don’t work so we take wrong turns and visit temples in a different order than the one that we wanted. They must have looked ravishing in their heyday. They are still impressive with their floor plan, their architecture, the decapitated Buddhas (thanks to the Burmese). 
The model of Wat Chaiwatthanaram

Wat Phra Si Sanphet, the image of it adorns the 20 baht bill



One temple escaped the fury of conquest and its walls are still adorned with frescoes of Buddha’s life.
Interior of Wat Na Phra Men
In the 70’s the authorities noticed a higher traffic with gold, and going backwards, they recuperated just a small part of a treasure hidden in one of those temples. It is now on display in the museum votive tablets, elephants, statuettes and part of the model of the temple. Opposite of this air-conditioned room was another one, in which we could admire the intricate stupas that interred a grain of Buddha’s remains. This was another treasure, with other things, delicate craftsmanship, to delight our eyes.
Chao Sam Phraya National Museum
Our hotel was on a quiet street. I noticed that there were dogs, their anatomy complete. They don’t have a master, people are taking care of them, so the dogs defend their territory. Growing up with dogs and living in a neighborhood where they organized themselves in nocturnal packs, I was wary of them. As we were leaving the hotel for visiting, I looked for a solid branch or something. Finding one, I left it at the corner of the street, hidden. Returning, I picked it up again, and not 20 feet on our street, the dogs noticed us, started barking and gathering. They would have attacked but seeing the stick, they were keeping their distance. A local girl got out and started throwing stones and they left us alone. A French girl congratulated us for being proactive.  She was the victim of an attack and she had a ripped skirt to prove it.
Bangkok
From the bus station we took a taxi to the hotel and cooped up there for the rest of the day. In the evening we visited the Kao San Street, the one that we were not supposed to miss.  There were so many people, walking up and down, hanging out at the bar, or the restaurant, or just perusing the clothing kiosks, having their hair braided or made in dreadlocks. We found a restaurant out of the main way, but we still couldn’t enjoy our dinner because of the hawkers trying to sell us bracelets, trinkets or sleeves with fake tattoos.
We had to do the second round of Hep A vaccine so we went to a clinic, where it was funny to see the bureaucracy of yesteryear at work (link Maria).
Wat Pho 

Mihai would visit more of this city, but we stayed put in our hotel rooms; we were tired. The last day we will visit quickly the Wat Pho temple where the longest reclining Buddha from Thailand resides besides the massage school, 
His soles are inlaid with mother-of-pearl.



and the Royal Palace with its crowded buildings and temples. It even had its own Angkor Wat model. The attraction here is the Emerald Buddha, a 2 feet statue made of green jade, that was found hidden in another one that cracked. It is perched in a high pagoda, almost lost in the decoration. The statues and the gardens have a Japanese feeling.


Garuda, to safe-guard the temple.

On the steps are handpainted tiles, the doors are inlaid with mother-of-pearl, the decorations  on the walls are colored glass and mirrors.



Having decided that we go to Koh Tao, we take the train and sit in the freezing air-conditioned compartment. The beds are on both sides, up and down, on the long side of the wagon, with blue drapes on which is sewn with yellow the number of the bed. 


In Chumphon we have breakfast on the platform waiting for 6.15 am to come so we can take the bus to the dock. We witness our first Thai sunrise as we walk on a shaky, uneven planks dock, toward the ferryboat.
The catamaran moves very quickly and in an hour we see the postcard picture: on a white sand bar beach chairs and blue water on both sides.
Koh Tao is a crowded place, with two sides: one that comes here for distraction, drinking, diving and the other one that provides these things. We were there for diving and you’ll read these adventures in a following post.
And then... beach—Bottle Beach. Its name comes from the way they marked the road toward it, with bottles. It is easier to reach it by boat than by land. It is a cove that has a hotel and numerous beach houses on its whole length. There are four restaurants, but just one seems to be preferred, and its waiters are something else. 


They seem drunk most of the times, they sit at your table to take your order and their comments are not my favorite, “I’ll see you when you see me”, “Now I know who you are!”. The food is expensive for Thai standards and is not that good. What else? Oh yeah, tourists. They come by taxi-boat for some hours on a quiet beach, and leave before sunset. I don’t know what the people who live here are doing, because there are just a few soaking sun, and sometimes I see others at the restaurant. 
My chair and two people on surf boards.
I just watch the waves, and the clouds, and the crabs, siting on a chair next to the sea. At 7 am besides the yoga person and the jogging woman there is no one else to see. At 9 am is already hot, my tanning done, so I take a dip in the clear, soup-like waters and disappear on the porch of the cabin. I try to catch up with the blog, or the pictures; we’ve taken so many, but I am tired, I am on vacation. The children have their own cabin, away from us, we see them when they need something from us or at dinner (the rest of the meals are if and when we feel like eating). There is nothing to do on this beach and I am happy with this, it’s what I need. I sleep at least 10 hours a night, but I am still tired. I move myself from bed to the beach, from there to a chair, and back to bed. It seems like I have waves of tiredness, my body recuperating in stages. 
If you look around you see blue, calm waters, white sand, palm trees, ten more tourists far away, you hear birds, sometimes the bass from the restaurant’s music. It is what I like (actually, I could do without the music and the people). It is a dream come true, to live on the beach, to hear the waves. Why have I told you all of these? Because I had everything that I wanted: vacation on a secluded beach, few people, time to read and books to be read, my family, no obligations and I was unhappy. I felt useless, no one needed me, I had no plans, even if I made plans, they would be changed because of the numerous factors that affect the dynamic of our travels, and I didn’t have a subject for plans, and why do I need plans? In my paradise surroundings it dawned on me, and accepted, that what I have is only today, now, so I should cherish it for what it is.
I still need reminding.
Can you see multiple hazy rainbows?
One afternoon I heard children voices. I looked and there they were, three of them, playing in the waves. Confident young ones, the whole world belonged to them. I couldn’t figure out who were their parents. Our children hearing them, renounced at their interests and joined them. Finding out that we’re Romanian, Meanabadeena (8) asked “Is there something romantic in Romania?” At dinner time, Tintin (8) asked his almost 5 years old brother, Snowy, “May I please have a sip?” This came in total contrast with two little French girls who were stretching their mother’s patience and a brother and a sister who were asking their mother’s attention all the time, just to ignore her when it suited them. Who are these people? They are the “Going anyway” family, that includes besides aforementioned Chris, Jill, Sparky, who has to travel in a stroller, because she has cerebral palsy, and Baby Boy, who is only 10 months old. Talking with them we found out that they are from Australia, they homeschool, and they are taking advantage that they are still young and the children want to travel with them. We spent wonderful days together, sharing stories and I hope that our paths will cross again, soon enough.
We stayed longer than planned. We renounced to stay a week in Penang, Malaysia, we had to take the train instead of flying to get there. As we were waiting for the train to arrive, we took turns sleeping on stone benches. There were huge cockroaches moving around our sandals and rats, following sewer pipes to get to the garbage bags. We’re not reacting, we just take care not to let them too close to our luggage. Because we were soaked in citronella oil, the mosquitos left us alone. Our train was late by almost two hours. It seemed that all the trains are. A group of young men descended close to us. They were telling their stories, how they left for a month, and now have been three already, how their mothers ask when they will return, would they recognize them with their tattoos, and now they have to return, they barely scrapped some money for a return ticket, beside cigarettes and beer. 
Tattoos are wherever you turn. They are beautiful ones, careful design, shading, for each taste: faces, Buddhas, strait lines, dragons and so on. They even go around moles, leaving them alone or including them in the design. But I still don’t understand what makes people go through that pain, to have something etched permanently on their skin. For the tribal people is like a code, it tells others about one if he’s a chief or killed so many animals with his hands. What am I supposed to understand about tattooed people in a western society?

Good bye Thailand and korp khun, thank you for the vacation.