Nightmares

I woke up last night with a terrible nightmare: I already bought the first two tickets of our RTW trip, I spent almost $7000 and I got tickets to a J....-j.... place somewhere in a colony of Brazil and from there to Surinam. We already decided to skip South America for this trip and this had been hard to accept. I had to justify it somehow, but this became easy when we realized that these places were on a different continent that was somehow hidden from the others (that's why we missed it the first time). There was a major issue getting from the hidden continent to the not hidden ones but at least it wasn't my fault. Having resolved this I felt a bit better but then I came to the worst part of the nightmare when I realized that I spent all the money for these places without having read about them and without knowing the weather! Eventually I woke up, I was relieved to realize we don't yet have the tickets. We are on vacation in Romania spending Christmas and New Year, we are letting families and friends know about our plans and making our secret plans public.

So far so good, people take the news pretty well, there is no secret that it is kind of crazy, especially for the life in Romania. We told my parents, Ileana's mother and sister, other people that are close to us. Some cheered, some got scared, obviously scared, but most people took the news very lightly and polite and moved the conversation to more pressing matters (like the daily life issues).

I am writing a draft letter to Airtreks trying to summarize our plans and our questions so far. We are now 301 days away from the planned departure and we could even buy tickets if we want to! This is something I played with last night and this would fully explain my nightmare. If this is what it takes, I'll take it...

Galápagos

This is a short summary of our trip in the Galapagos:

• Day 1-2 - Just travel 

We left our home on Thursday morning, 14 hours before the plane departure. We stopped for a few hours at the BMW dealership for the maintenance service and then kept driving toward JFK. We made it a couple of hours early, this was good because we had time to get back to the car and recover the forgotten water bottle. The kids were very good on the plane, slept almost all the time. We landed fine in Guayaquil and even stepped out of the airport for a couple of minutes. It looked to be a fine and interesting city, but no time for that. We were almost late for the Galapagos connection because Ileana wanted some ice-cream. We landed in Baltra just on time, and just in time for us to realize that we do not have the permit. We were among the first off the plane, but by far the last ones getting in because it took forever to fill the permit. After $500 and a long wait we were through, the buses left, but Freddy was there to offer us one of the cheapest cruises and some of the finest hotels. We passed on those, but got boat tickets. Of course the last ones, I didn't believe that, who would? Except that he was probably right.
Then we chose a taxi for $20, the guy was the first one surprised of how little baggage we have. It was a good decision because we talked a bit, learned about him and his family. Giovanni was nice enough to let us visit Los Gemellos for a few minutes and dropped us in front of the agency with the boat tickets. They all did what they said but for us it was a long confusion and incertitude. Finally we were on the boat with the help of a nice guy from Peru. Ileana came to lean on her mother, she wasn't able to hold her, I took her in my arms and held her through what she called in Romanian "a trip to hell". Ioan also got sick, only once, then fell asleep. The rest of us was fine. After arriving in Puerto Villamil we found a nice hotel and visited a small place with flamingos. So far so good. We got to the end of the road, or one of the ends of the world and we made it in less than 34 hours.

• Day 3 - Chasing a sea turtle 

I am chasing a sea turtle with my camera, underwater, flanked by my daughters - in my first ever snorkeling experience. I think that it's stupid, this is a turtle I should be able to swim faster. As the seconds get by I start to realize that I'm not that young anymore and I should be more cautious, this is her element after all and maybe I should let her get away. Then I realize that it's not really my choice, she's long gone. But I did see a sea turtle and I got it on camera for a couple seconds. A fish made faces at me and a sea lion was nearby. This was a great first day in Puerto Villamil. I slept uninterupted for 9 hours and 26 minutes, we all slept well, my daughter Ileana even said it was her best sleep ever. Then we started slowly with the breakfast in the restaurant and then maybe an hour of unpacking and preparing for some exploration. We went on a trip to the breeding center, 1 km through the island, by ourselves, on a very nice trail. We saw some of their 1000 turtles and in the afternoon we went to the trip to Islas Tintoreras. This is volcanic little island inhabited by some iguanas, lizards, penguins and white fin sharks. At the end we snorkeled, Ileana stayed in the boat because it was cold, but I followed the kids and had a blast, I even thought for a moment that I'm in trouble, what if I'm hooked now on some crazy expensive hobby? We ended the evening with dinner at the Tres Hermanos restaurant in the village and a nice conversation with a couple from Peru.

• Day 4 - Riding a wild horse 

Sunday we planned a visit to the Volcano Sierra Negra. We asked if we could get horses for the kids, we were first told that nobody knows, probably not. A few hours later we were told that this day is horses only and we will have to take a horse. After a 30 minute drive up the volcano we pass some shekel and a group of horses surrounds the car neighing and jumping with excitement. These were our horses and I was the third one assigned to one, a big and dark one. I had to jump on it and before I knew it I was down in the dust. Ileana explained later that it was a technical problem, not my fault and it would have happened to anyone. We had to go a bit over one hour up the mountain to reach one of the largest calderas in the world and the trip by horse was pretty good. I ended up in a group by myself, three people ahead, then me then Ileana and Maria followed by the local cowboy and then a few minutes behind were the other kids and the rest of the group. Unfortunately after a while I became uncomfortable, I wanted to know how the kids were so I waited for Ileana and Maria and let them pass to end up with the cowboy behind me shushing my horse to hurry up. And my horse would hurry up trying to pass Ileana or Maria, but their horses wouldn't want it, and Maria didn't want to let me go ahead again. And Ileana wouldn't understand why I wanted to know how the kids were and why I hated so much being pushed from behind by the cowboy. Eventually we made it to the top, saw the caldera and started riding around it, after a while we reached the northern part of it, left the horses behind and walked by the rim. A couple minutes later Ileana and Ioan arrived with a triumphant yell. They were fine and had fun all the time.

We started to walk toward the Volcano Chico, a beautiful, martian landscape with cacti. We were lucky to have clear skies - we saw all the other volcanos on Isabela, probably saw the Fernandina Island and saw a couple of other islands. It was tempting to want to go further, more and more and see more. But we stopped after a while and started climbing back toward our horses. We had our picnic under a magnificent tree and the guide was still behind with a couple of the people. When he finally came, two young ladies asked permission to take off to go ahead and start walking back. It was very tempting to me and in a couple of moments I decided to walk back too. For three reasons, first because I really wanted the exercise, second, because I was afraid to ride back on my wild horse, especially going downhill it was hard to control it, and third, because I was told to let the kids have fun and trust them. 

After we got back to the hotel, the girls wanted to take a shower and just stay in the room so we took Ioan by the ocean. A different notion of a deserted beach, there were some houses in the background but it was just us and a huge iguana, she left, a small one came, we chased some crabs between some lava rocks and Ileana and Ioan played with the waves for a few minutes. Just the second day of vacation. It's not real...

• Day 5 - Stealing my money 

To my mind if somebody takes $115 and says she'll bring a receipt tomorrow and then never comes and disappears without trace, that means something. I woke up early on Monday morning trying to calm my thoughts and tell myself that we will get on the boat even without the tickets. We were up at 5 and off the door by 5.30. On the boat at 6.10, because of course, Maira the young lady at the hotel made all the arrangements for the boat, like she said. She might not even realize that in other part of the world some people would just take the money and disappear with it. 

The second boat ride was better, it was early in the morning, the boat was better, the sea was calmer. We arrived without problem at Cactuspad, our residence for five nights in Santa Cruz. We left the kids home and walked in the town to see what's available for the next few days. We inquired at Moonrise travel, Yvonne found two short cruises, we were not even sure we want something like that, but the price and the opportunity was too good to pass. In short we spent a few hours reviewing our choices, including more than an hour in her office, and after spending $3925 we got a cruise for 4 days that will visit Floreana and Española and leave us on San Cristobal, plus two day trips for Thursday and Friday. We will then have three nights on Cristobal and return to Santa Cruz for the night before our departure. We got home and we had a little ceremony, giving each of the children one of the receipts, Ioan received the receipt for the cruise, the big ticket, it will start on his birthday. Then we told them that we are out of money and it will be pasta for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Instead of protests we got cheers!

• Day 6 - Toward the Center of the Earth 

It's raining here and it's cold. Last night I was able to get some weather forecast that said sunny and clear sky. So it' s raining, it rained all night, it's the garúa season. Change of plan: we'll go to the lava tunnels. We stopped the first taxi, he would take us there and wait for us, for $25. He has a flier and I realize this is not what I want. I want the tunnels next to Belavista, only 7 km away and only $10. We ended up visiting the Gallardo's caves, a pair of fantastic lava tunnels. We met Mr. Gallardo who must be in the late 80's, he was a teacher who came from the main land in 1948 and discovered the tunnels on his land. His daughter walked us to the entrance. We started with the non-touristic one, a fantastic experience that reminded us of both Cetatile Ponorului, in the Romanian Apuseni Mountains, and the Jules Verne's Travel to the center of the earth.

Gallardo's Tunnels

It turned out that there was only one other couple that went in this tunnel this year. Then we visited the Tunnel del amor, the touristic one that even had some electrical light. We loved it, the kids had fun, we would recommend it to anybody. The ticket cost was $10 for the five of us.  When we got out the rain stopped and after lunch we went to the Darwin Center and the local tiny beach.

• Day 7 - A Perfect Beach 

The sky is still clouded but we have a plan and we have to follow it. Today it is Tortuga Bay, no matter what. It's a long trip and this would be the last chance. We are at the entrance of the trail by 10.15 and we start a power walk for the 3.5 km. We walk among cacti and bushes, the trail is of side walk stone, the sun starts showing more and more. We come at the first beach, it looks great but it is dangerous, we have to walk another kilometer. We take the wrong turn and end up on the lava rocks above the ocean with hundreds of iguanas. We were barefooted and it was rough, but I used my power of suggestion yelling and screaming, faster and faster, "it's doesn't sting, it's doesn't burn, it doesn't stink!" It did stink really bad, there were left overs from the birds and animals. After a while we had to get our shoes back on and after a few minutes we arrived at the most perfect lagoon in the world. A perfect beach with fine white sand, and some trees to keep us shade a few meters from the shore. No insects, no snails, no shells, no waves, a blue green warm water, a little breeze and sunny clear skies. Here and there a marine iguana, passing by.

The kids spent an hour in the water playing with each other. After a while we rented a kayak for a little exploration in search of "tortugas y tintoretas", sea turtles and hammerhead sharks. We didn't find any, Ileana stayed behind and saw a turtle in the water, but we had a great kayak trip anyhow. First time kayaking in the Pacific Ocean. On the return trip the kids snorkeled for a bit and Ioan filmed "thousands" of fish. We came back after 4 pm, a perfect day at a perfect beach. The only negative is that I will never ever find a better beach. It will be hard not to compare with Tortuga Bay, somewhere in the Galapagos...

• Day 8 - North Seymour 

Traveling in the Galapagos is a well organized affair, but for us the day started with half an hour of waiting in the rain. We were warned that it might take 10-20 minutes before the bus picks us up, but after 20 minutes we were ready to call Yvonne and ask some questions. Then the bus came and we got a short apology. We thought we were the last ones but after 15 minutes we stopped on the side of the road and we waited for a couple coming by taxi. Apparently they were forgotten, we never learned the full story. The rest of the day was much better, the boat was slow and stable, no reason to be concerned with sea sickness. We visited the North Seymour Island, it was a 90 minutes walk among frigates and blue foot boobies, several youngsters were really cute. Then we found a couple of sea lion cubs, one probably only a week old.

It was frustrating at some point to see Ileana several steps ahead, looking bored and disinterested. I had a talk with her and she explained first that it was boring and then that she doesn't like to manifest her emotions. How frustrating for a father to work so hard to arrange a trip to Galapagos and then to be told that "it's boring". I really didn't find my sense of humor, especially with the prospect of a longer trip coming up. We had another brief conversation before dinner and she clarified that knowing herself, she was afraid to let her emotions out of check because she might have lost her control and might have stepped out of the trail or might have made sounds that would have scared the birds. So she was so excited that she had to act bored in order not to lose it. And I only found out at the end of the day...
The afternoon was also frustrating because the second part of the trip involved a snorkeling session, but they didn't have decent equipment and the water was cold. Funny though, when all was said and done it looked like another good day. Ileana had a great time all along and the kids too.

• Day 9 - Bartolomé 

Up at 4.30 am it's not something easy for us but we were laughing in the street at 5.10 am telling our stories, about our dreams and morning experience. I was asking Ileana if Ioan has other shorts besides this ones and she was answering that this ones are the other ones, or the other ones are this ones, and none of us knew what was going on. We made it and we waited much less for the bus, then another 45 minutes to the boat and three hours on the boat. We had a good breakfast and a short nap in the morning, Maria enjoyed staying by herself in the front of the boat, even saw some dolphins. Ileana came to tell us that she thinks that she wants to spend the rest of her life on a boat. Last week she was so sick she thought she went to hell and today she refuses the sickness pill and wants on a boat. This is our daughter, never a moment of dullness. We arrived at Bartolomé island and started the ascension surrounded by lava terraces. Here and there a small cactus and a small bush. Going up and up we were starting to get some idea of the magnificent landscape, but the view from the top was the best. It is one of the iconic images of Galapagos and it is really worth the time and the trip. Not sure if it is worth $425, but I will say yes.

The second part of the day was another snorkel, on the right beach, much better equipment and the wind went down. The water was cold at the beginning, but soon we warmed up. We had a blast. All of us saw a colony of brightly colored fish, a penguin, several sea lions. Ileana and then her mother filmed a lot under water. We had a good lunch and then another 4 hours until we got home. We all slept on the boat, I walk up from my nap asking something really stupid, like "Do I have to sleep ever again?"

• Day 10 -13  - Galaxy 

Our first cruise. Nobody knows how we ended up on the cruise paying about 30% of the good cheap rate. We had 3 nights and 4 days by their count. By my count we had 3 nights and 2 days. Both first and last day activities could have been done independently on Santa Cruz and on San Cristobal, so I only count the full days on the boat. These were fully scheduled, intense days, with a dingy ride, two landings and two snorkeling sessions. Breakfast was served at 7 am and the activities started at 8, ending with a conference at 6.30, before dinner. When we arrived we had a lunch of calamar that was fantastic. Unfortunately the kids suspected something and skipped the thing. Then we visited the Santa Cruz highlands. Second day was Floreana and the third day was Española. At 8 am on the fourth day we were taken ashore for a visit to the Exhibition centre on San Cristobal.

Ver Galapagos Galaxy 2011 - 4 Days Itinerary en un mapa más grande
The cruise was for 16 people, but we were only 12. The guide, born and raised on San Cristobal, was Roberto. There were another 9 cruise members, including the barman and waiter, Angel. The passengers were three young men from New York City, four people from Austria and us. Unfortunately despite the luxury and the comfort a cruise is not for us. I hate the system of tips, I find it appalling that after charging $400 per night they recommend a tip of $10-15 for the crew and a similar separate one for the guide. This is per person per day, so the total for me to pay would be between 200 and 300 times two. They recommend the level of tips based on the satisfaction with service. I didn't care that it was cold and we didn't have hot water in the shower. Even at the bargain price of $3000 instead of the regular price of $8000, I found it very hard to justify the expense and I couldn't fully enjoy the experience. I decided from the beginning that the tip would be $100, it is still a lot of money in my mind. My family was able to disregard these aspects and fully enjoy the cruise, the attention from the crew and luxurious meals. I would highly recommend Galaxy to anybody, just don't carry with you a family of five. We really liked spending the last night talking more with Roberto and then with Harald and Franz, the two austrians who were spending a two week vacation climbing three peaks in Ecuador, plus Galapagos, Peru (Cuzco, Machu Picchu and Puno) and Bolivia (Isla del Sol and La Paz). Talk about fast travel. The girls liked to talk with the people on the cruise, I think especially with Franz. My daughter Ileana was impressed with his record 70 countries visited and she was sure that he travelled around the world. He actually did, he told us about his three-week trip from Vienna to Tokyo, Hawaii, LA, Houston, Vienna. Maria was a bit frustrated because she couldn't talk about our future plans for travel. I told her she could, but it was too late already.

• Day 13-15 -  San Cristobal 

We initially planned almost a full week on this island, but after the cruise we only had three days left. Some of us were tired and wanted less activities. Some were just longing for internet and computer time. The first day was half planned by the activity from the cruise and the optional tour of the tijeretas. This was a nicely paved climbed up the local hill, a nice view of the ocean and some frigates. In the afternoon I convinced the rest of the family to go to La Loberia. This was a short taxi ride, followed by a nice walk along the shore. Ileana Ruxandra was ahead and after a couple of minutes gave up, "there are just rocks here". Ileana was following her mother, and Maria and I decided to continue ahead. At this point we heard Ileana scream, followed by her mother's reaction. She bumped her toe and it was a little bloody! We ended up going all the way along the beach to a nice little lagoon where local sea lions were hanging out. 

The taxi driver, Xaviere, came back for us and he offered to take us to a trip on the highlands. When we left next day in the morning, Ileana Ruxandra already has made her mind that this was to be the last excursion. The last two days of vacation will be just vacation... 

It was a four hour day trip with a few nice objectives along the way, El Lagoon, the only fresh permanent water in the Galapagos, the tortoise breeding center and Punto Chino, another amazing deserted beach at the end of the road.

Punto Chino, San Cristobal

Not too many people encountered, but when we were circling the lagoon, a guy, Cristian, asked where are we from. He thought he heard us speaking Romanian, his wife was Romanian, they were living for two years in the islands. We met Madalina at a local tourist agency. It was nice to speak Romanian, and we used her the next day to rent snorkeling material. In the afternoon the kids didn't want to leave the room so we (the parents) left by ourselves and spent a couple of hours alone on the Love Beach waiting for and watching a great sunset.

Thursday was the second day in a row with clear sunny skies but Ileana and the girls didn't want to do anything. After a couple of hours Ioan and I decided to go snorkeling and we had a great afternoon together, swimming with a couple of sea lions and sea turtles. A quiet evening and preparing the luggage for early departure tomorrow. 

• Day 16 - Puerto Ayora

The last boat ride was eventless. We might be able to get used to this... We came back from San Cristobal to Santa Cruz so tomorrow we can get to the airport. We had reserved an apartment on our previous visit, we checked in at 10.30 am at Judy's Suites. I started to read the book "Around the World in 80 Days" while Ileana and the kids were watching some DVD. In the middle of the day! Just being able to relax and accept such a waste of time was a good experience. Don't ask me what movie it was, I think I am becoming allergic to Nicholas Cage. That would be a shame, but there are worse things  in this world.

We had a plan: eat at two recommended restaurants and go again to the perfect beach!

On the beach, the kids are playing in the water and we start talking about our current vacation and about the trip around the world. To make a long story short, Ileana informs me that she doesn't really want to go to South America during our trip. It makes sense, we are in South America, we love the culture, the people and the things we want to see and we know for sure that we are coming back! During the following minutes, hours and days I repeat to myself a million times that we are not going to South America and it's OK. After a while I start to believe it...At night the girls stayed home by themselves to finish the food and do their things and the boys took mom out to dinner!

• Day 17 - Coming back

Wake up at 5.45, in the taxi at 6.30, on the boat at 7.30, on the bus at 8 and there we are the first people in line at the LAN counter for checkin. And there I stayed for the next hour because the lady was so dull.  The rest of the plane checked in, almost everybody, using the other 2 agents and I was still there patiently waiting for her to figure out things. The luggage man came to help and not having much to do wanted to check the weight of our hand luggage, and surely, we had to check that in. And of course the other two agents finished the rest of the plane and came over to help our lady. After she finished she told me that I will have to checkin in Guayaquil for the plane to NYC! I asked her nicely why? and she realized that is part of her job and agreed to do it. Then she forgot the frequent flyer miles and had to reprint the boarding passes. Anyhow, something to remember. We had fun in Guayaquil trying to recover our luggage and we were able to get it. We waited more than an hour to enter USA, a shame compared to any country that we know so far. Maybe we'll find something worse on our trip, that would be great!

The 5 hour ride back home in the middle of the night was OK. Ileana drove a bit, I slept and when she pulled over I told her to be careful at the sea lion in the middle of the parking lot. My mistake, it was a puddle.  Then I start driving and at one point there was a lizard on my wiper blade. Thankfully we were all in our beds by 4 am and I don't remember after that...

Galapagos

Momeala a funcționat: suntem prinși, fără nici o putință de scăpare!

Am plecat cinci oameni cu patru bagaje de mână, trei schimburi fiecare, două subțiri și unul gros pe noi. Un bagaj era doar din scule, iar altul din cărți și caiete. Trebuia să verific dacă putem să mergem în jurul lumii cu atât de puține lucruri. Ce obiecte sunt bune, ce trebuie să schimbăm.

Înainte să plecăm ne-am făcut temele și am învățat despre Galapagos: istorie, geografie, păsări, animale. Am citit cărți și ne-am uitat la filme, am căutat pe internet informații despre ce trebuie să vizităm pe ce insule, în ce agenții să ne încredem, ce hoteluri să evităm. Pe scurt: ne-am dus pregătiți. Mental...Restul ne-a luat pe sus.

Insula Isabela, hotel La Laguna: de pe terasa de la etajul întâi, ce face legătura între camerele noastre (și ale altor locatari), instalați comfortabil pe canapea, putem vedea cinci flamingo care își desfășoară viața normal, mănâncă, se întind, își curăță penele, zboară. Peste o margine a lagunei este construit un ponton complet din lemn (inclusiv cuiele) pe care circulă turiști și localnici. Toți se opresc pentru un moment să se uite la păsări, care sunt atât de diferite în colorit. Te-ai putea crede într-o grădină zoologică interactivă. Ne plimbăm în jurul hotelului. În mai puțin de un minut suntem pe malul oceanului unde găsim iguane marine ieșind din mare, tacticoase și teritoriale. Reintrăm în sat și ne îndreptăm spre Centru de Creștere al Broaștelor Țestoase și ne oprim fascinați la fiecare minut să admirăm fie un conglomerat de iguane mai micuțe care se încălzesc, fie cintezoii, fie alte păsări care se afla acolo. Experiența ne spune că ar trebui să se teamă de noi, să se ascundă. Apoi mă gândesc că sunt precum vrăbiile, își desfășoară existența printre picioarele oamenilor. Dar sunt reptile printre turiști! Și dintr-o dată îi admir pe toți oamenii care au făcut acest moment posibil pentru noi: pe cei din UNESCO care au declarat Galapagos moștenire internațională, pe cei care au decis că 97% din pământ și încă o bucată mare de ape teritoriale este parc național, pe cei care au construit toate facilitățile pentru turiști, respectând animalele și teritoriile lor, pe cei care locuiesc în insule, pe turiști.

Pe insule locuiesc un număr restrâns de păsări, reptile, mamifere. Au fost super studiate și clasificate. Dar nu asta este ceea ce face deosebită experiența de a fi în Galapagos, ci sentimentul de privilegiu de a fi în vecinătatea unor animale sălbatice care sunt în mediul lor și nu se tem de tine, că ți se îngăduie să fi martor la viața lor. Am văzut broaște țestoase în rezervație sau în mediu natural, libere să se miște unde vor. Dacă te concentrezi doar pe ochi, au priviri care exprimă curiozitate, așteptare, plictiseală, supărare, somnolență. Am văzut un cuplu de albatroși care își făceau curte unul altuia stând pe cuib și clocind oul, într-un loc înțesat cu alte cuiburi în care își așteptau părinții pui pufoși. Am văzut blue footed boobies hrănindu-și puiul și apoi ferindu-l de soare. Am văzut lupi de mare făcând gimnastică, scărpinându-se și hrănindu-și puii. Am văzut și auzit pești mâncând alge de pe stânci, un zgomot ca de foarfeci scurte. Am văzut șopârle săpându-și cuibul. Și nu mai am putere să vorbesc, ci doar mă concentrez să respir într-un ritm relativ normal și să absorb cât mai mult din ceea ce e în jurul meu.

Insulele Galapagos sunt vulcanice. Se formează deasupra unei guri active vulcanice între două plăci tectonice. Placa Nazca se mișcă spre est și cu ea și insulele, care pe măsură ce se îndepărtează, se acoperă cu vegetație, devin locuite, își pierd sursele de apă, se erodează și se scufundă. Pe insula Isabela se găsesc cinci vulcani activi Wolf, Darwin, Alcedo, Cerro Azul și Sierra Negra care este și vulcanul activ cel mai mare din lume, cu o caldera al cărei diametru este de aproximativ 10 km. Este o întindere mare de lava, cu pereți abrupți, cu diferite culori în funcție de vechimea erupțiilor. Dimensiunea ne covârșește.
Ne îndreptăm spre un vulcan secundar lui, Chicco. Mergem pe o cărare mărginită de guyave (plantă introdusă și invazivă), trecem și pe lângă un copac la umbra căruia ne vom mânca prânzul și dintr-o dată peisajul se schimbă: lavă și iarbă, apoi doar lavă roșie, aspră, fragmentată. Ne uităm în jur și vedem mai multe conuri secundare pe care lava încremenise fie în râuri, fie în explozie. Avem senzația că abia au terminat. Și totuși unele locuri aveau aproape 100 de ani. Ajungem într-un loc mai înalt de unde avem o vedere de ansamblu: în apropiere de noi lavă roșie și neagră, conuri și frânturi, în depărtare vedem istmul de 14 km al insulei alb, verzui, Alcedo, în spatele lui Darwin și abia conturat Wolf. În dreapta insulei vedem insula Santiago și mai departe Santa Cruz. Dintr-un alt punct de belvedere putem bănui insula Fernandina. Și te simți mic și neajutorat dacă ar fi să fie activi toți vulcanii, și norocos că poți să privești și să ai la picioarele tale un asemenea peisaj. La mai mulți kilometri distanță spre est, pe insula San Cristobal într-un con vulcanic se află la înălțimea de aproximativ 750m un lac de apă dulce în care vin fregatele să-și spele penele de sare și petrelii să-și facă cuiburi pe malurile lui. Fiind sezonul uscat ar trebui să fie garua, o ceață fină, dar suntem norocoși și putem vedea de jur împrejur lângă noi lacul și jos în depărtare o panglică albă de valuri ce se sparg de stânci. Avem senzația că suntem într-un glob de sticlă pentru că nu putem distinge linia orizontului, culoarea oceanului se continuă în culoarea cerului, înconjurați de marginea sud vestică a insulei.

Din nenumăratele insule doar patru sunt locuite permanent. Diferitele feluri de păsări locuiesc pe diferite insule și ca să le vedem am făcut excursii de o zi și am fost într-o croazieră. Ne-am dus la agenția Moonrise unde Yvonne, o doamnă cu trăsături asiatice, ne-a făcut mai multe oferte și ne-a ajutat să alegem. În dimineața excursiei ne-am așezat cuminți pe marginea străzii așteptând autobuzul care să ne ducă la șalupă. Din când în când trebuia să facem semn clar mașinilor papuc care ne claxonau, că nu dorim un taxi. Din curba drumului a apărut autobuzul și cu siguranță a oprit în dreptul nostru. Ghidul ne-a întrebat dacă suntem noi cei pe care trebuie să-i ia și la confirmarea noastră ne-a lăsat să urcăm.
Turistul este o ființă egoistă. Are un timp limitat, cheltuiește sume mari de bani în acest timp și i se pare că asta îi dă dreptul: să ocupe locul cel mai apropiat de ușă, să stea cel mai aprope de ghid, să rămână ultimul ca să facă poze, să iasă de pe cărare pentru un unghi original, să calce regulile și lista ar putea continua. 40% din locuitori lucrează in turism. Asta înseamnă că șoferul de taxi care te duce într-un loc sau altul de pe insulă nu te lasă de capul tău să urmezi cărarea, ci merge cu tine sau în urma ta, îți dă explicații, îți răspunde la întrebări, îți atrage atenția la lucruri pe lângă care ai trecut fără să le bagi în seamă. Ghidul îți explică cât de important este să rămâi pe cărare sau în zona permisă, altfel poți să calci pe un cuib de șopârle sau de broaște țestoase; să nu atingi puii de lup de mare oricât de drăguți și curioși ar fi pentru că mamele lor nu i-ar m-ai recunoaște cu mirosul de om pe blana lor, nu i-ar mai hrăni și ar muri; să nu te apropii prea tare de animale, pentru că le stresezi; să nu folosești blitz, pentru că le afectezi vederea; să nu le hrănești pentru că își schimbă comportamentul. Iar această supraveghere combinată cu regulamente stricte de câte bărci pot să acosteze pe o insulă, câți oameni pot fi pe insulă deodată, câți oameni cu un ghid, face posibilă experiența din Galapagos.


Când am plănuit excursia ne-am gândit să mergem și singuri. Așa am ajuns la tunelurile de lava care s-au format în urma racirii stratului exterior, în interior continuând să curgă lava. Pe pereții lor se pot vedea erupții succesive, care au dus la rotunjirea jumătății inferioare și în final la astuparea tubului. Ne-a întâmpinat o doamnă cam la 55 de ani care ne-a arătat pe o hartă cum sunt tunelurile. Inițial a fost unul singur, dar i s-a prăbușit tavanul în trei locuri și așa au ajuns să fie patru tuneluri, din care cel de aproape 800m era amenajat cu curent electric și avea o podea aproximativ netedă. Am întrebat dacă putem să îl vizităm și pe cel neamenajat și puțin mirată, ne-a dat voie. Am aflat mai târziu că într-un an de zile până la noi mai fusese un cuplu care vrusese să viziteze tunelul, restul mergând direct la cel electrificat. A venit cu noi până la gură și ne-a ajutat să coborâm pe pietrele alunecoase de ploaie. În fața noastră se întindeau doi kilometri și ceva de tunel, înalt de vreo 5-6 metri, care nu semăna de loc cu cel din O călătorie spre centrul pământului. Având doar două lanterne și trei copii făceam cu rândul pe luminătorii, ghidându-ne și ajutându-ne să înaintăm printre bolovanii căzuți din tavan. Pe pereți vedem rădăcini fine și niște ciuperci conopidiforme. Găsim urme vechi de foc cu o mulțime de capse de blugi, modele diferite. Pe tavan sunt o mulțime de picături de apă care sclipesc aurii. Ajunși în fața unei alte dărâmături majore, hotărâm să ne întoarcem, dar nu ieșim din tunel înainte de a stinge lanternele și a ne uita cu ochii larg deschiși în beznă și ascultând liniștea. Am sentimentul că ne-am ținut de mâini pentru a nu ne pierde, dar poate că nu e adevărat.


În comparație cu acest tunel, cel electrificat era de-a dreptul turistic și mult prea simplu. Ne-am întors la locul de unde am cumpărat biletele ca să așteptăm taxiul. L-am cunoscut pe tatăl doamnei, profesorul Gallardo care venise la 23 de ani în Galapagos pentru a-i învăța pe copii și care a descoperit tunelele. Ne-a întrebat dacă am văzut tot tunelul și părea puțin dezamăgit ca am ajuns doar la jumătate. Doamna nu intrase în tunelul respectiv în ultimii 15 ani și păreau să nu știe de unele dărâmături. Drobul de sare mi-a apărut pe ecranul minții după două zile citind cartea Deep Survival. Am fi putut să fim îngropați de vii... dar n-am fost. Am continuat să discutăm despre tuneluri iar doamna le-a oferit copiilor guava, o păstaie verde cu rizuri de aproape un metru lungime și 5 cm diametru. Maria s-a dus să o ajute să o culeagă cu un fel de coasă lungă, apoi au desfăcut-o și am gustat cu toții pulpa albă, dulce și umedă și ne-am uitat mirați la semnițele vinete-negre care erau deja încolțite.

În curând a venit taxiul și ne-am luat rămas bun cu guavele în mâini, cu sentimentul că plecam de la rude mai puțin cunoscute. M-a impresionat dorința femeii de a ne îmbogăți experiența și cred că și noi am impresionat-o pe ea. O familie cu trei copii care călătorește, cu Ioan care seamănă cu unul de-al lor! Am întâlnit persoane care uitându-se la Ioan au început să vorbească în spaniolă, așteptându-se să li se răspundă la fel. Suntem un fenomen rar, din nenumărații turiști, am văzut doar o familie cu copii. Chiar și tineri sunt puțini.

Oamenii care locuiesc în Galapagos au trăsături amerindiene: pielea smeadă, ochii negri, pomeții largi și înalți, de statura scundă și puternici. Dar ca în orice loc turistic sunt și asiatici, și nordici, și africani, și români. Femeile se îmbracă frumos și colorat, bărbații obișnuit. Muncesc din greu și nu am văzut nici măcar un cerșetor. Sunt deschiși, curioși și vorbăreți, vor să știe de unde suntem și cum am învățat spaniolă.


Orașele sunt un amestec de foarte vechi cu foarte nou. O casă cu două etaje, cu gresie și piscină, stă lângă un bordei acoperit cu tablă ondulată și curte cu lavă sfărâmată. Multe case sunt încă în procesul de a fi construite (plătești mai puține taxe) dar cu puțină vopsea și imaginație și o curățenie deosebită totul devine frumos, nu mai vezi fierul ieșind din betonul armat. Felinarele au panouri solare, ceea ce permite o luminație feerică seara, o plăcere să te plimbi pe faleza acoperită cu dale de piatră și presărată cu bănci pe care scrie Conservamos lo nuestro. Dar rondelele de flori trebuiesc udate cu mâna pentru că nu s-a planificat un sistem de irigație proprie.


Am fost întrebați dacă ne place mâncarea ecuadoriană. Inițial nu știam răspunsul: un grătar cu orez și fasole și salată mi se părea mâncare de turiști. Am mâncat și pe stradă: empanadas con queso, un fel de gogoși cu brânză, și borjillo, o cocă cu yucca și zahăr cu umplutură cu banane, mmmm foarte bun. Dar poate că cea mai autentică mâncare ecuadoriană am mâncat-o în croazieră. Micul dejun era constituit din sucuri de fructe (naranjilla, tomatillo, mora, guayanava, limon) ouă, carne. La prânz ne-au plăcut în special supele, foloseau ceva ca o salată, dar un gust parfumat. Iar la masa de seară aveam un pește super fraged și bun (am avut bucătar grozav!) Da, ne place mâncarea ecuadoriană.

Croaziera a fost o experiență nouă pentru noi. Am călătorit pe yachtul de clasa întâi Galaxy, cu fotolii și banchete acoperite în catifea și cu sundeck cu iarbă artificială. Inițial ne-am simțit precum ruda săracă, dar văzându-ne co-pasagerii îmbrăcați în pantaloni scurți și tricouri, ne-am liniștit: noi eram mai eleganți decât ei. Am avut un program intensiv, cu vizitat insule dimineața și după-amiaza, cu foarte puțin timp liber și am văzut locuri pe care altfel nu am fi avut cum. Plaja cu olivine ( o piatră prețioasă formată în procesul erupției) ne-a apărut verde doar la lumina apusului(insula Floreana). Plaja de pe Espanola cu nisip alb era presărată cu lupi de mare, așezați unii lângă alții precum purceii, cap la coadă. Puțin mai încolo, printre lava bătută de valuri, crabi roșii Sally light foot și iguane marine, negre cu stropi roșii pe a căror spinare creșteau alge verzi. Broaște țestoase care înoată chiar lângă mal și te fac să te întrebi dacă vor să iasă ca să-și depună ouăle.


Am plecat în călătorie fiecare cu agenda lui proprie. Dar stând aproape tot timpul împreună, văzând atâtea lucruri, trăind aceleași experiențe, ne-am întors mai uniți, conștienți de vulnerabilitatea noastră individuală și puterea noastră de grup.

Puerto Villamil de pe insula Isabela este un sat puțin mai mare, care are multe hoteluri și hostaluri. Are chiar și un mini stadion, unde se joacă fotbal în fiecare seară, cu excepția duminicii. În linie cu el sunt restaurantele, în dreapta este spitalul, în față este parcul, în spate este oceanul. Trotuarele înalte sunt din beton, iar străzile de nisip. După ce am mâncat masa de seară la restaurantul Tres Hermanos ne întoarcem spre hotelul nostru. Asistăm la unul din rarele momente în care două mașini trec una pe lângă cealaltă în sens opus, dar una din ele stă și așteaptă să poată folosi contrasensul. Drumul ei este blocat de un copac bătrân care crește în mijlocul străzii. Oare ce o să mai vedem când mergem în jurul lumii?